Nepal 39: Hash

Pokhara Cafe

The Malaysian and I played two more games of chess. I eked out a thin win in the second game after he sacrificed his queen in a risky gambit that never paid off, and we played an onerous game of pawns-and-king for the third that should have gone to a stalemate, but ended with an unforced error on my part that allowed him to back me into a corner and checkmate me.

Although the Malaysian took the series 2-1, I felt I had represented myself well, especially considering I hadn’t played serious chess in a year or more.

While we were playing, a small group of spectators had gathered around us. Some of this group were patrons of the cafe, perusing menus and asking questions of the hostess, while others were clearly here just for the chess.

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Nepal 38: Chess in the Cafe

Pokhara Cafe

I had just been accosted by a stranger on the streets of Pokhara, Nepal. This man was no tout though, and his offer intrigued me.

“Do you like chess?!” The man had yelled at me, from the stoop of a nearby cafe.

“Love it!” I’d responded.

“Would you like to play??” He asked.

Before I had even given it a second thought, my legs were taking me across the potholed street and up the steps, where I shook hands with my new friend: an old Malaysian man with an impressively white beard.

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Nepal 30: Hotel Snow Leopard

Our story continues with Part 2, in the northern town of Pokhara, nestled at the base of the Annapurna Mountain Range in Nepal. If you’d like to figure out how we got here, I’d suggest starting with Part 1.

PART 2: POKHARA

We arrived in Pokhara around 4 p.m., heart rates elevated but otherwise unharmed.

My bus pulled into a big dirt lot, which apparently served as the local bus terminal.

I shook myself awake from the light sleep I’d been enjoying, and gathered my things.

I went through a brief panic when I thought I’d lost my hat, before realizing it had just fallen on the floor, probably when I shifted while asleep. I picked it up, put it back on my head, and shouldered my backpack. I was the last one left on the bus.

The touts were on me immediately as I stepped off the bus, grabbing for my bags and yelling offers for lodging.

I had done almost no research before getting on that bus this morning. I had no idea where I was, what there was to do in this town, or where I should stay.

So I took a tout up on his offer.
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Nepal 25: Smoking with Sujan

cannabis nepal

Sujan walked me around Kathmandu for a few hours.

As we spent more time together, our chemistry grew and my walls started to drop, a little bit. We went to the monastery, where we spun prayer wheels and spoke of the mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism. Although in the U.S. we are taught the two religions are separate, here, as in many places in Asia, they have intermingled.

“Do not be afraid,” Sujan says when I hesitate to enter a temple. “Is touristic place.”

He shows me an array of butter lamps inside the temple. “Do you have someone to light one for? Good health, good thoughts? Prayers? Love?”

I light a lamp for Holly, and we return to the streets of Kathmandu.

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