Ice Climbs to Side of Martha, RMNP

Lacee Ankeney and I went up to Chasm Lake in the Spring of 2024, planning to make a spring climb of Alexander’s Chimney. When we reached the lake, we spied two ice flows on the cliffs of Mount Lady Washington which we had never seen before. It was a cloudy day, the perfect chance to climb these south-facing lines. We changed our plans and popped over to take a look. This was fortuitous for us, as RMNP SAR was searching for a lost hiker, and they ended up locating his body at the foot of Lamb’s Slide that day. We would have been the party to discover the body if we had continued with our original plan.

The ambiance in the cirque was moody that day, both due to the unusual grey weather and the repeated sweeping turns from the search helicopter.

There were two distinct lines formed. We climbed the right-side line for one 30-meter pitch, finding it around M5+. The second pitch looked yummy, but we passed due to extremely poorly-bonded ice, warming temps, and disappearing protection. We wrapped a cordalette around a boulder and rappelled from there. We saw no other fixed gear. I was not able to track down firsthand accounts from anyone who had climbed this before, but probably some old-timers have. It’s not mentioned in any printed guidebooks or online sources.

Some pics:

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Two Flowers on Wham (RMNP)

Rappel off of Wham, RMNP

Boy, the news is bad lately, huh?

I have never been so ashamed to be an American.

I thought now would be a good time to go back and write about a few climbs or adventures I kept to myself over the years.

This particular climb we did in 2021, just as the Covid-19 vaccines were becoming available, and we were beginning to feel a little hope about a bad time coming to an end. After a year of paranoia and discouragement, I was dating again. The most important factor, of course, was that she had to like climbing.

I met Madi on a dating app; her outdoorsy photos and genuine joy in nature made it an easy match. She was a relative novice in climbing, but no biggie. I had the skills to drive, and knew enough to impress—at least in this arena. Things went quick and smooth. One lunch date to feel each other out, some climbing afterwards. A second day out on the Bastille Crack, an easy multipitch near Boulder which every I had wired to the point of disregard. She loved it, and surprisingly, so did I. We kissed goodbye in the parking lot, full of hope for the future.

I had the perfect next step: Rocky Mountain National Park. I’d been climbing there a lot the past two summers, and would impress her with a moderate route up an impressive and seldom-climbed feature. “Wham” it was called. A bulbous tower of granite, it sat right next to a popular climb, Zowie, which I’d done a couple of times already. Plenty of people climb Zowie; no one climbs Wham. Nonetheless, the route was in the book, and on Mountain Project. At an elementary grade of 5.7, it would be the perfect date climb. I imagined summit beers, making out on the belay ledges, and a fairy-tale haze of summer sun and optimism.

Years later, Madi tells me she remembers the sun and the optimism. I remember fear, engagement, and my heartbeat in my throat, not as I pulled in to kiss a beautiful woman, but instead as I unexpectedly ripped a microwave-sized block off the wall, 30-foot runout, with a belayer I barely knew.

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Recent Reads: Mountaineering Books

My online store selling climbing guidebooks and mountaineering literature has really taken off. I just passed my 100th online order at Dirtbag Dan Books, accounting for over 500 books sold! This has been an engaging and exciting project. It has also been bringing all sorts of interesting climbing books to my door. I’ve been trying to read the ones which interest me quickly, in case they sell.

Mountaineering literature is a specific genre, but broader than you might think. Here’s what I’ve been into lately:

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Dirtbag Dan Books

If you know me in real life, you’re probably aware that I’m always slinging climbing books – buying and selling guidebooks. Over the years, this has proven to be a pretty reliable small business for me. I was selling mostly via forums and social media – good venues to reach interested customers, but they require an active effort. Since I had some time on my hands after my climbing accident, I decided to build an online store for selling climbing books. That website is now complete! You can check it out at DirtbagDan.com.

(in climbing culture, being a ‘dirtbag’ is considered a positive thing)

Some rare books I have in stock currently:

If you’re a collector or a climber, I think you’ll enjoy it. New books will be added on a rolling basis, and all orders ship USPS media mail. Check it out and buy some books! Thanks.

Recent Reads: Broken Foot Edition

A broken foot begets a lot of free time. My climbing accident gave me the most spare time I’ve had since Covid – at least the most spare time with no athletic activity to fill it. At first I read a couple climbing books – since I’ve been buying and selling this genre, I have a tremendous amount on hand. But most climbers aren’t great writers, and the genre does not excite when you can’t actively dream. I turned to fantasy.

The Witcher is a Polish fantasy series, although it really reach an international audience through the video game adaptations, especially The Witcher 3: Wild Hunt, which was a worldwide hit. Indeed, playing The Witcher 3 during Covid quarantine is what got me interested in the world.

Embarrassed after such cheap fare, I finished up my recent reads with a more nutritious Roberto Bolano novel, in Spanish.

A bit more on each of these, below.

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