Ko Lanta, Thailand: A Digital Nomad Guide

Phrae Ae beach ko Lanta Thailand

Or: “I feel like a dork.”

For our first foray into the international digital nomad lifestyle, Polly and I followed a pretty established trail. We started our remote work journey in Chiang Mai, Thailand, then moved south to Ko Lanta for a month on the beach, and then dropped anchor in Ubud, Bali for two months. Hundreds of people run this exact route, or the reverse, every year.

Plenty has been written about both Chiang Mai and Ubud as digital nomad destinations. A little less is out there for Ko Lanta, so I thought I’d give some perspective on what it’s like coworking from an island in Southern Thailand.

“In Chiang Mai, I felt cool. Like we were on the cutting edge of something. Here in Lanta, I just feel like a dork.”

This statement sums up the experience of remote work on Ko Lanta perfectly.

Yes, the island is pretty viable as a digital nomad destination. But the atmosphere and vibe couldn’t be further from the “digital nomad ideal,” which in my head, involves a lot of people sitting around, drinking coffee, coding and talking almost exclusively about entrepreneurship.

Now, I’m not the biggest fan of that mentality— as a writer, I often find myself excluded from the conversation. Plus, it’s just kind of dry. You’re in Thailand: why does it sound like any office in San Francisco? It is noticeably missing– or at least reduced– in Ko Lanta.

You don’t have the “I’m a digital nomad” hubris in Ko Lanta

It’s just people who are working while traveling.

The island has one coworking space, called KoHub. KoHub offers a decent Internet connection, but I found it to be spottier than I’d like, prone to weather and power outages. Additionally, the island is prone to power cuts, from which KoHub is not immune.

Still, the community is super approachable, and the owner James is friendly and always available. I found the people at KoHub to be friendlier and more conversational than at any other coworking space I’ve frequented so far— Including Hubud, which has an online reputation as a stellar community, but seems quiet and focused in reality, not so social. (Not that that’s a bad thing, tbh).

The people working at KoHub are humble, social and just happy to be near the ocean. It’s a good vibe. I wish their Internet was a bit more reliable.

But here’s the thing/

You don’t NEED a coworking space

The Internet likes to champion the value of a coworking space, but in my view, they’re kind of over rated. For certain types, like those whose work depends on fast, reliable Skype calls, a coworking space can be a necessity.

If your work just requires loading Internet pages and sending emails? Save your money. Most are overpriced.

Most of the time we were in Ko Lanta, I worked from our room at Patty’s Secret Garden. Patty’s features a bar, restaurant and rooms, all running off an old, outdated router. It’s slow. But it was free, and the owners Julian and Jeed were more than accommodating to our needs. I saved quite a bit of money this way.

IMG_4612.JPG

Plus, one night they spontaneously taught me how to make Pad Thai in their kitchen. Bet your coworking space won’t do that for ya!

The Internet on Ko Lanta isn’t as fast or as freely available as Chiang Mai, but I’d say it’s better than Bali. My TrueMove SIM card provided coverage anywhere on the island, plus in the coastal town of Ao Nang, where you may end up if you need to wait for the ferry.

Remote Working from a beach in Thailand

IMG_4578.JPG

The problem with working from the beach is simple: you don’t want to work.

Why would you? An endless ocean in front of you, bars serving 2-for-1 cocktails all day, and all around you, everyone is having fun. It’s impossible to be around this environment and not want to join in.

Although Lanta is sleepy, as far as Thai Islands go, make no mistake: it’s still a tourist destination. The island’s economy revolves around tourism, and there is no shortage of people trying to sell you something. Luckily, beach touts are very rare, and people in general are quite respectful here. There’s still the odd bar blasting techno music till 4 a.m., but in general things are quiet and relaxed.

So, should I go to Ko Lanta??

Ko Lanta is a good place to go to relax. On the flipside, it might not have the energy a lot of nomads like to be around. A pair of nomad friends in Chiang Mai expressed that exact sentiment to us before we left. “Lanta? Why are you going there?” they asked. “It’s a fucking snoozefest.”

And they were right. But sometimes you just want to relax on the beach. This certainly isn’t a bad place to do that, while still remaining confident that you’ll be connected to work.

What is there to do in Ko Lanta?

Check that out in my post: “6 Things to do in Ko Lanta, Thailand!”

Best!!

Dan

 

Backpacking Singapore’s famous Marina Bay Sands

Marina Bay Sands hotel at night

We were the only people wearing backpacks in the check-in line at the Marina Bay Sands, Singapore’s most famous 5-star hotel. All around us were businessmen in slick suits, Indian families on holiday and wealthy Korean socialites. Shiny, wheeled suitcases abounded, sliding silently across the perfectly polished floor of the Marina Bay Sands’ immaculate lobby.

IMG_0528.JPG

And then there’s us: two very young Americans, soaked in sweat and baggy under the eyes, with these huge scruffy backpacks sticking up above our heads; looking up at the impossibly high lobby ceilings, with their suggestive curving lines and beautiful architecture. We were starstruck.

IMG_0527.JPG

Probably looking something like this.

A five star hotel isn’t a traditional backpacker– or even flashpacker– destination. But this was the Marina Bay Sands— it is THE touristy thing to do in Singapore. It has the world’s highest rooftop infinity pool. The supertrees at the nearby Gardens By The Bay were one of the first things we agreed we wanted to see, a year ago when we first started discussing travel. And, it was Polly’s birthday.

So I booked a night in the cheapest room at the Marina Bay Sands.

The cheapest room at a five-star hotel is not cheap. In fact, I paid as much for one night at the Marina Bay Sands as it costs to rent a lower-end serviced apartment in Chiang Mai for a month. But sometimes in life, you have to go big. This was one of those times.

The benefit to looking out-of-place

After quickly reaching the front of the check-in queue, we were greeted by a very friendly clerk, who asked us if we were backpacking around Asia. “Traveling,” we said. “It’s my birthday,” Polly told him. “My great boyfriend over here bought us a night here as a birthday present.” “Good present!” he said, and upgraded us to a 51st-floor suite with a view of the bay.

Sometimes, looking out of place can make things happen for you.

Sometimes, it just makes you feel awkward as hell in Malaysia.

A suite at the Marina Bay Sands

IMG_0534.JPG

Now in possession of a suite for the price of a simple deluxe room, we giddily headed to Tower 3, where we used our RFID room card to gain access to the upper floors (exclusiveeeee).

We were floored when we walked into the room. Coming from tiny backpacker rooms on Ko Lanta and Ao Nang, to THIS, was more than we could handle.

The suite consisted of a big lobby area with a couch, chairs, and big screen TV, and a wall of windows looking out into Singapore Harbor, where dozens of ships were docked. There was a small– very small– balcony you could walk out on. For a couple of landlocked kids like ourselves, this was an amazing sight.

IMG_0669.JPG

 

The living room was separated from the bedroom by two large sliding doors. In the bedroom, the wall of windows continued. A plush, king-size bed commanded the room, facing a second, slightly smaller TV. All the lighting and drapes could be controlled from switches on either side of the bed.

In the bathroom: a huge bathtub, two sinks (godsend for couples), an opaque toilet cubicle (complete with a wall-mounted phone), and a rainfall shower. Toiletries and puffery out the ears, of course. There was also a huge walk-in closet and massive safe, but we honestly had no use for that. All our possessions fit on our backs.

IMG_0530.JPG

The room was so cool it was tough to convince ourselves to leave it and actually go see the city. You could easily spend a week in Singapore without ever needing to leave the Marina Bay Sands complex— provided you had the money to burn. The area has a high-end Vegas vibe and is priced accordingly.

The Skypool at the Marina Bay Sands

We didn’t have a week, we only had one night; so we had to jam as much as we possibly could into that one night.

First stop: the famous Skypool on top of the building. Visitors willing to pay a small fee can access the restaurant, bar and observation deck on top of the Marina Bay Sands, but pool access is a privilege reserved exclusively for hotel guests. You can be damn sure we were going to take advantage of it, and get those Instagram photos.

To be honest, I never did nail “the shot” from the skypool. I got a lot of good ones, but no one definitive image. So I’m just going to post a gallery.

The pool area’s actually quite large, stretching on for 300 meters. It is pretty crowded, but we didn’t find it obnoxiously so. There were few enough people that your personal space could still exist, something which you can’t always take for granted in Asia. We were able to grab pool loungers or a spot in one of the three hot tubs without any trouble.

Unfortunately it was pretty chilly while we were there, so we didn’t spend too much time in the pool, which was apparently calibrated to help beat those sweaty tropical nights. We spent most of our time in the hot tubs, which don’t have such spectacular views.

At night, they put on a fireworks and laser show in the marina, which you can view from the infinity edge— an experience sure to make you feel like you’re “on top of the world!”

The Casino

IMG_0540.JPG

We lost some money in the casino. I tried to take a picture but got yelled at and then followed by a guy in a suit. As you can see, it wasn’t a very good picture. Not worth the yelling. Turns out I’m a bad gambler no matter which continent I’m on.

The Gardens By The Bay

IMG_0647

We went at 1 a.m. just to check out the Supertrees— this is a cool, free activity which is also open until late at night! Singapore’s reputation for extreme safety had us feeling fine strolling through the deserted Gardens in the middle of the night.

The Supertrees aren’t to be missed. They are huge, man-made megastructures, covered in lattices for vines and other tropical plants to grow on. Additionally, the trees are models of sustainable engineering. They have open funnel tops, which serve as water reclaimers: they capture rainfall, which is then recycled. The wonderful purple lighting comes from solar power collected by panels installed on the trees themselves.

The tallest supertrees are 50 meter (150 feet) tall. For a small fee, you can go up and walk between two of the tallest trees on a skywalk (we didn’t do this).

In addition to the supertrees, the Gardens By The Bay boasts an impressive collection of international flora. Sadly, we didn’t have much time to experience this, but those into plants and gardning would find a lot to like in this attraction.

In Conclusion

Despite taking a significant chunk out of the budget for one night, I don’t regret staying a night at the Marina Bay Sands. Our free upgrade to a suite definitely colored my experience, but I think I would have been just as blown away by the simplest room this hotel offers. I can’t imagine anything here being bad.

Feeling Othered in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur Regalia Serviced Apartments AirBNB

NOTE: I’ve really been slacking on the travel blogging, partially because we’ve been having so much fun, and partially because I do have a day job. Bler. Despite that, I do have a backlog of adventures to write up, so look for those in the coming week. They’re not quite in chronological order, because I figure it’s better to get content, any content, flowing again. So, without further ado:

Feeling Othered in Kuala Lumpur

Before we were feeling othered in Kuala Lumpur, we were in Ko Lanta, Thailand, sitting cross-legged in a treehouse on the beach. It was nighttime, and now and then a huge lightning storm went off in the distance, lighting up the whole Andaman sea for a moment, before it all went black again. In the foreground, a few local Thais put on a show of their own, spinning and throwing flaming balls of kerosene-soaked rags for the tourists in the chintz plastic chairs.

IMG_4619.JPG

One of those things a picture could just never do justice. 

Polly and I sat cross-legged above the scene, in a second-storey tree house nested in the clavicle of a beach palm. A local Thai and two British schoolteachers were our company. We told the teachers of our travel plans: to Singapore, where we’d stay at the Marina Bay Sands, then on to Kuala Lumpur for a few nights, in transit to Bali.

“Two days is about right for Singapore. Like… negative one days for KL,” they said. “It’s… not a very nice place.”

This is what everyone says about KL.

Continue reading

A Ski Bum in the Tropics

Bluebird Day in Blue Sky Basin Vail

 

This time last year, I was cruising around Vail’s legendary back bowls, thigh-deep in powder.

Today finds me halfway around the world, in a place where the very concept of snow is totally unknown. The language isn’t English, the people don’t party so hard, and the weather is much too hot for my liking. I’m a tourist in Asia, not a local.

It’s quite a big change from Vail, where I relished being someone set apart from the hordes of international tourists. It’s increasingly looking like I will miss ski season entirely. After skiing for solid months last year, it’s weird to be developing sandal tan lines in December.

IMG_0718.JPG

NOT THAT IT’S ALL BAD (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

 

The digital nomad scene is a different sort of running away, full of very different people than ski bums. In some ways I fit in better here, but there’s not much room for outdoors adventures when you spend most of your time hunched in front of a laptop screen. Joining a pre-arranged tour for a hike up a volcano is a very different experience than going backpacking in your backyard.

(And truthfully, Colorado is sunnier than the tropics!! It rains a lot here!)

Since I’m missing the outdoor adventure lifestyle so much, I’m bringing on another writer to keep me informed, keep you psyched, and keep everyone aspiring to more.

C is holding down the ski bum dream in Vail, Colorado. He’ll be providing a continuation to the ski town content I started last year. He’s 20 years old, a college dropout, adventure seeker, and all around smart guy. In fact, you can spot him in one of the rotating banners up top— looking at his cell phone in a Vail Mountain lean-to. Last year found us alone in the glades on the backside of Beaver Creek’s Grouse Mountain; slamming into walls while doing quasi-legal rock climbing at Wolcott, and on top of four 14,000 peaks in one day, predawn, in the middle of a meteor shower. He’s solid company.

You’ll enjoy him.

C will be introducing himself with a post in the coming week, and after that, you can expect to see his posts interspersed with mine.

That’s all for now. Merry Christmas from halfway across the world! Make some holiday turns for me, a ski bum stuck in the tropics!

The Digital Nomad Deception

HASHTAG DIGITAL NOMAD

“That woman just came in here to take a selfie, then left!” I barely noticed, but the pair of 50-year-old brothers sitting next to me are besides themselves at her behavior. “What’s the point?” they ask.

I’m in Hubud, Bali’s hippest coworking space. A bamboo treehouse cum Internet café overlooking the rice fields in the center of Ubud; the place is Instagram-worthy, for sure. It attracts hundreds of pilgrims every month, people who want to wear the moniker of the hippest new trend: “digital nomad.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/1UffAVJsHB/?tagged=hubud

 

“Can you really be a digital nomad if you don’t Tweet and blog constantly about being a digital nomad?” I ask the man (the irony doesn’t escape me). He just looks back at me, quizzical. “It’s fucking stupid,” he says. He’s been writing code since before I was born.

The laptop in a hammock on the beach is a lie. Everyone knows this. The absurdity of this image is a running joke amongst the people who frequent Hubud. This idea is the face of the digital nomad lifestyle, and you’ll find it everywhere from blog banners to BBC stories to the cover of the digital nomad ur-text: Tim Ferris’ The 4-Hour Workweek. It’s a blatant lie, and it’s everywhere.

But that’s far from the biggest lie the Internet will tell you about the digital nomad lifestyle.

Continue reading