Feeling Othered in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur Regalia Serviced Apartments AirBNB

NOTE: I’ve really been slacking on the travel blogging, partially because we’ve been having so much fun, and partially because I do have a day job. Bler. Despite that, I do have a backlog of adventures to write up, so look for those in the coming week. They’re not quite in chronological order, because I figure it’s better to get content, any content, flowing again. So, without further ado:

Feeling Othered in Kuala Lumpur

Before we were feeling othered in Kuala Lumpur, we were in Ko Lanta, Thailand, sitting cross-legged in a treehouse on the beach. It was nighttime, and now and then a huge lightning storm went off in the distance, lighting up the whole Andaman sea for a moment, before it all went black again. In the foreground, a few local Thais put on a show of their own, spinning and throwing flaming balls of kerosene-soaked rags for the tourists in the chintz plastic chairs.

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One of those things a picture could just never do justice. 

Polly and I sat cross-legged above the scene, in a second-storey tree house nested in the clavicle of a beach palm. A local Thai and two British schoolteachers were our company. We told the teachers of our travel plans: to Singapore, where we’d stay at the Marina Bay Sands, then on to Kuala Lumpur for a few nights, in transit to Bali.

“Two days is about right for Singapore. Like… negative one days for KL,” they said. “It’s… not a very nice place.”

This is what everyone says about KL.

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A Ski Bum in the Tropics

Bluebird Day in Blue Sky Basin Vail

 

This time last year, I was cruising around Vail’s legendary back bowls, thigh-deep in powder.

Today finds me halfway around the world, in a place where the very concept of snow is totally unknown. The language isn’t English, the people don’t party so hard, and the weather is much too hot for my liking. I’m a tourist in Asia, not a local.

It’s quite a big change from Vail, where I relished being someone set apart from the hordes of international tourists. It’s increasingly looking like I will miss ski season entirely. After skiing for solid months last year, it’s weird to be developing sandal tan lines in December.

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NOT THAT IT’S ALL BAD (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

 

The digital nomad scene is a different sort of running away, full of very different people than ski bums. In some ways I fit in better here, but there’s not much room for outdoors adventures when you spend most of your time hunched in front of a laptop screen. Joining a pre-arranged tour for a hike up a volcano is a very different experience than going backpacking in your backyard.

(And truthfully, Colorado is sunnier than the tropics!! It rains a lot here!)

Since I’m missing the outdoor adventure lifestyle so much, I’m bringing on another writer to keep me informed, keep you psyched, and keep everyone aspiring to more.

C is holding down the ski bum dream in Vail, Colorado. He’ll be providing a continuation to the ski town content I started last year. He’s 20 years old, a college dropout, adventure seeker, and all around smart guy. In fact, you can spot him in one of the rotating banners up top— looking at his cell phone in a Vail Mountain lean-to. Last year found us alone in the glades on the backside of Beaver Creek’s Grouse Mountain; slamming into walls while doing quasi-legal rock climbing at Wolcott, and on top of four 14,000 peaks in one day, predawn, in the middle of a meteor shower. He’s solid company.

You’ll enjoy him.

C will be introducing himself with a post in the coming week, and after that, you can expect to see his posts interspersed with mine.

That’s all for now. Merry Christmas from halfway across the world! Make some holiday turns for me, a ski bum stuck in the tropics!

The Digital Nomad Deception

HASHTAG DIGITAL NOMAD

“That woman just came in here to take a selfie, then left!” I barely noticed, but the pair of 50-year-old brothers sitting next to me are besides themselves at her behavior. “What’s the point?” they ask.

I’m in Hubud, Bali’s hippest coworking space. A bamboo treehouse cum Internet café overlooking the rice fields in the center of Ubud; the place is Instagram-worthy, for sure. It attracts hundreds of pilgrims every month, people who want to wear the moniker of the hippest new trend: “digital nomad.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/1UffAVJsHB/?tagged=hubud

 

“Can you really be a digital nomad if you don’t Tweet and blog constantly about being a digital nomad?” I ask the man (the irony doesn’t escape me). He just looks back at me, quizzical. “It’s fucking stupid,” he says. He’s been writing code since before I was born.

The laptop in a hammock on the beach is a lie. Everyone knows this. The absurdity of this image is a running joke amongst the people who frequent Hubud. This idea is the face of the digital nomad lifestyle, and you’ll find it everywhere from blog banners to BBC stories to the cover of the digital nomad ur-text: Tim Ferris’ The 4-Hour Workweek. It’s a blatant lie, and it’s everywhere.

But that’s far from the biggest lie the Internet will tell you about the digital nomad lifestyle.

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Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Bali: A digital nomad diary

Holly and I have been on the road for 10 weeks now, simultaneously traveling and working online; doing the digital nomad thing. We’re not very good digital nomads though; are you really a digital nomad if you don’t tweet and blog about it constantly? It doesn’t seem so.

Gotta sell that lifestyle. (Or that ebook).

I’m a bit conflicted about the lifestyle: it is awesome, but it is also exploitative. Today, I’ll show the awesome side. Next week, we’ll pull out our critical thinking hats and dig into why it’s exploitative.

I bet this post gets more hits.

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Zazen, or the Art of Sitting

My girlfriend and I have been in Chiang Mai for two and a half weeks now.

“If this were a normal trip, you’d getting ready to go home about now,” my mother said to me, on the phone—free international communication being one of the luxuries you can easily enjoy in a city as connected as Chiang Mai. “Your bags would be packed.”

This is true, from a salaried, 40-hour workweek viewpoint. That’s the American way— two weeks, paid vacation. Not a second more. Most people don’t even take the full two weeks.

There’s too much to be done. Never enough time.

That mentality remains even when Americans are on vacation— we are over-programmed, trying to cram in so much, check off so many boxes, that nothing really registers. You can fly through New York City in a week, do twenty things, and leave without any real appreciation for the place. I took that trip, last year, in New York. I love New York, but the magic escaped my companion. We are not taking that approach in Chiang Mai.

After nineteen days here, I barely feel like I have my feet on the ground.

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I love lingering over my — often WITHOUT a laptop.

My everyday routine looks something like this: Wake up late. Get breakfast, or get lunch and call it breakfast. Grab a coffee or two. Read. Write. Linger. Grab dinner, maybe a few drinks. Take in a Thai street performer covering Western songs. Go home early in the evening, catch a weird English movie on TV, and hit the hay. Wake up at some ungodly time, work a few hours on U.S. time, then go back to bed. The sun’s rising over the city at this point.

My sleep schedule is shot, but I don’t mind it.

What else do I have to do?

I am ostensibly doing the same things in Thailand that I was doing in the U.S.— eating, sleeping, dating, working, and writing. I brought my two most important possessions with me: my laptop and my climbing gear. I didn’t sell everything else, but I probably should have.

What else do I need?

I am living the same life I was in the U.S., but I am saving more, eating better, and learning more than I was in the U.S. I am living better, for a quarter the cost.

Why would I be anywhere else?

Life here is only beginning to click. The pulses and rhythms of daily Thai life are getting their tendrils around me, and my mindset is beginning to relax. I plan to take up a daily meditation practice. Free of the cultural cage, my brain is beginning to breathe.

Doi Suthep Thailand Prayer Flags car port

Zen Buddhists call seated meditation “zazen.” Zazen is the practice of clearing one’s mind. It is the process of accepting; of “just sitting.” It is the simplest concept in the world, and simultaneously it is completely incomprehensible.

Zen isn’t sensible. By it’s very construction, Zen cannot be understood logically.

To the owner of an overactive brain like mine, it can be an extraordinarily appealing philosophy.

The Buddha is everywhere in Thailand.

Gold Buddha Images in Thailand

Here, things are slower; simpler; regenerative. The possibilities are endless, but pursuing them never feels necessary. A day spent sitting in conversation over food and coffee is just a day. In the states, I might feel like I was negligent with the day, working too little towards my future. On a shorter trip, I might feel like I wasted the day by not pursuing a unique activity. During long-term travel though, that’s not a good day or a bad day. It’s just a day.

How long has it been since you had a day like that? Don’t keep reading— sit, really take a moment and consider the question. It will be further past than you think it is. Not an average day: a daily day where you breeze through it, half present and half-worried-to-death. When was the last time you just lived a day, quiet, content, and totally mindful of the experience?

Those periods of content are few and far between, especially as a young person. I’m not sure most millennials know how to experience that feeling, with social media malevolently tugging at your marionette strings.

The magic of travel, for me, so far, lies in the feeling of escape from the puppetmaster. Travel is an experience which transcends social media— I am still playing the game, but I know it is futile. There is no way to accurately portray this time in my life. It’s impossible, and everyone knows that. It cannot be communicated through a photo, which is perhaps why travel often makes people so jealous.

Photos are the worst part of the experience.

As a consumer of someone else’s travel, you always want to know what is beyond the frame. As the traveler, you always feel frustrated being unable to properly portray what lies beyond those artificial borders. It is unsatisfying for all, which is why your friends rarely discuss their travels in details when you ask. It is fruitless.

Real life isn’t the highlight reel: it’s the out-takes.

The two-week vacation is highlight-reel travel. By making such an effort to curate and edit your experiences, you often can return home having experienced nothing at all.

Since arriving in Thailand two and a half weeks ago, we have visited exactly one tourist attraction, the Wat Doi Suthep. The experience was enlightening, the tourist crush a loud, obnoxious contrast to our quiet, reserved, and altogether everyday experiences elsewhere in the city.

Naga Stair Doi Suthep

Although the sort of stuff pictured above is what you will see on Google when you search for info about visiting Thailand, to me, Thailand is a good cup of coffee. It is walking down unremarkable alleys in search of a new restaurant; it is the workmen all around who are ALWAYS building. Life as a nomad passing through this city for more than a little while is not about tourism; it is simply about living life, as quietly and as best we can.

Obviously, the longer we remain, the more things will change. More connections will form, and routine will set in, in some way, as it always does. But those things aren’t necessarily bad. Standing brunch dates, Skype calls, and co-working sessions will emerge— some have already begun. A life is coalescing around us.

The key difference, I think, can be glimpsed in the phrasing I chose: “coalescing.” A word which came through my fingertips without any thought— simultaneous prose, a perfect word. Life does not coalesce, in the states. You are constantly pushed to be better, to do better, to MAKE a better future for yourself. This pressure comes in many forms, obvious and subtle, but it comes from all angles. From the moment you are born until the moment you make peace with your life, you are cooking under pressure.

And if you decide to ignore that pressure, you are often shunned. Those that see a good life coalesce around them in the states are ostracized, accused of privilege and not earning their spot. Misplaced belief in meritocracy dominates the U.S., and it’s hard not to buy in.

“I know I’m amazing,” your monologue says. Your parents say. Your culture says. And when the external world doesn’t validate that internal monologue, things start to get unpleasant inside your head. Everything gunks up, and you start questioning things which should be automatic. Self-esteem and cultural validation kick in, and suddenly you aren’t even getting that many Instagram likes so what is wrong with you why is it soo deeply rooted and will you ever overcome it?

Your brain becomes deafening. And amidst all this noise, it becomes impossible to take the steps which need to be taken to placate that self-doubt. You become trapped by your culture, and yourself.

Being surrounded by a foreign culture forces even an overactive internal monologue like mine to hibernate, while baser brain functions come into play. This is the great benefit of travel. It instills a sense of focus and calm, almost like a meditative state.

Here, one can just sit.