By the afternoon, my feet were sore from a long day of walking around Lakeside Pokhara. That’s all I was thinking about as I slowly beat a path back to my room at the Hotel Snow Leopard. Walking along the shores of Fewa Lake, staring at my feet and wondering if these cheap boots would be at all comfortable for trekking, I was flagged down by an old man.
He stood astride a bicycle, and was chatting with a fruit vendor. Perhaps it was because I’d walked around all day and hadn’t spoken to a soul, or perhaps it was something about this old man’s demeanor, but I felt drawn to him. I knew he was going to try and sell me something I didn’t want, but the prospect of bartering – of conversation – was appealing.
So much of my time in Nepal had been spent in bleak loneliness.
Although that was destined to happen, some – considering how I’d staggered into the country – it wasn’t the reason I’d come here. So I slapped a smile on my face, put away my anxieties, and I walked over to the old man.
He was selling posters. If you have visited Nepal, or ever do visit, you will know the posters I’m talking about. These wide-angle images of the mountains are sold on every street corner. Stunning, snow-capped panoramas of the different Himalayan mountain ranges decorate every guesthouse, trekking lodge, restaurant bathroom and coffee shop bulletin board in the country. The Nepalese people know what their country’s got — and they’re eager to advertise.
These posters had caught my eye in Kathmandu, where they were cheap and plentiful. Several panoramas depicting the Annapurna Range, as seen from Pokhara and Poon Hill, decorated the stairwells in the Hotel Snow Leopard. There was undoubtedly a printing shop somewhere in Kathmandu, knocking these things out at 20 or 30 rupees a pop. They were far too ubiquitous for the wholesale price to be high.
I walked up to this man, thinking I might be able to get a cheap price from him.
“Namaste, my friend!” he said, as I approached.
“Namaste,” I answered, as had become habit since arriving in Nepal. This customary greeting translates roughly as ‘The divine one me recognizes the divine in you.’ Acknowledging your fellow human beings in this way, and being acknowledged in return, actually significantly cheers one up. If you do so in the U.S., sure, it seems pretentious, but here in Nepal, it’s authentic. Even with a blackness in my heart, I find myself unable to say ‘Namaste’ without smiling.
My ‘hellos’ at home are surly, if they come at all.
They do say travel changes you.
I didn’t feel much change in five months of travel with Holly. It felt like all of our usual problems, our same old flaws, and the same fights — just with different backdrops. I was working, she was working, but all the while, we weren’t working. Same people; same priorities.
It was a different me who looked down, and saw the man selling the posters had no shoes.
“Where are your shoes?” I asked the man.
“No shoes,” he said.
“No shoes.” He confirmed. “No money. No tourists. No one to buy.” He gestured at the posters. “No home any more. No money for shoes.”
He was laying it on thick, but I didn’t get the sense he was lying.
“Was your home destroyed by the earthquake?” I asked.
“Yes,” he said. “Whole home, gone. Luckily, I was here when it happened, or I would be gone too!”
“But Pokhara wasn’t damaged by the earthquake, was it? Nothing is destroyed here.”
“Yes, Pokhara fine. But I live 20 kilometer away,” he said.
“20 kilometers?! Do you bike all that way?” I asked.
“Walk,” he answered. “20 kilos every day. Don’t even have shoes, but I walk here every day to sell posters. My family needs the money.”
I looked down at the man’s feet. True to his word, they were barefoot and callused. Did he actually walk 40 kilometers a day? I couldn’t say. He was probably exaggerating, pulling my leg a little. He knew I was a tourist – likely a rich one, looking as young as I did – and gullible enough to fall for a sob story. I knew this, in some little analytical corner of my mind. But my empathetic brain was handily winning the battle, today.
That usually didn’t happen.
Back when Holly and I had been falling in love, she’d introduced me to the concept of EQ — emotional quotient.
“That’d be like, zero, for me,” I said, laughing.
“Yuuuuuup,” she’d responded. “Your IQ’s off the charts though.”
“You’re great at both!” I’d said, playfully. “That’s not fair!”
She smiled a proud smile, and nuzzled up a little closer.
Nepal was growing my EQ every day.
“What size shoe do you wear?” I asked the man.
He told me a size a little below my own. I looked down t my rented hiking boots and pursed my lips.
“Will still fit, I think,” he said, placing his foot alongside mine, for comparison.
It was noticeably smaller, and besides, these were my only shoes.
“I need these for trekking,” I told the man. “But I’ll buy some posters.”
He looked mildly disappointed. “Ok maybe after trekking, you come back and find me?” he asked, hopefully.
“Maybe after trekking,” I said, conciliatory.
I selected two posters: a big photo of Everest Base Camp, taken from Kala Pattar, and a picture of daybreak hitting the Annapurna Range over Pokhara— a view I had yet to see in person, because of the smog which was still clouding the air.
I took out a thousand rupees, and handed it to the man. He took it, hesitantly, then said:
“Sir? This, it is not enough for two.”
This is where, normally, bargaining would begin. We’d go back and forth about the quality of the products, the availability, the difficulty I’d face in getting them home — each of us trying ton convince the other that didn’t need to make the transaction.
But I really had no desire to bargain with a man who walked barefoot to and from his destroyed house to maybe sell two or three posters a day to tourists. I didn’t bargain at all. Instead, I handed him another thousand rupee note. Even if everything he’d said to me had been a lie – which I doubted – I’d enjoyed our conversation, and I knew in my heart that he needed that twenty dollars more than I did.
He forced a few small handicrafts on me in exchange for my generosity, and we parted with a ‘namaste.’
Even though I’d just paid about four times what I had hoped to spend on posters – and probably about ten times what they were actually worth – I couldn’t help but smile.
19 thoughts on “Nepal 35: The Man With No Shoes”
You can tell that your emotional quotient is growing by knowing things that you don’t usually do and now you either just did it and maybe still doing it. Places can change our beliefs in things. A dogma that we thought always right maybe wrong…so good for you.
” Even with a blackness in my heart, I find myself unable to say ‘Namaste’ without smiling.” This line stole the show for me. What an observation! I actually backtracked to see how I greet people. I am an Indian and I only realized after reading this that a Namaste greeting always goes with a bright smile, never mind the mood. It is so strange how a foreigner always notices the nitty gritties of your culture that you took for granted.
For all these people hoping this man got some shoes, shouldn’t it be better to hope that he got some food for his family instead…
In my experience, shoes will always need to be replaced, over long distances new shoes will rub the feet up in all the wrong places and there is a chance he’ll get additional woes because of them.
Whereas feet just last forever and if you’re used to the distance, it’s not so bad. But as you say, he may well have been milking it because of foreigner naivety, and good on him. If you live life that gullibley then you deserve to get played….
Been in some of the same, exact situations…LOVED this…it brought back some fond memories of travelling through China, as well! Waaay back in time, I had wanted to visit Tibet or maybe take the Trans-Siberian back home. However, I ran out of money, and some friends warned me of their horrible altitude sickness. Have you had any on your travels?
Nah, I grew up in Boulder and spent the past year before I took these travels living in Vail, so the altitudes I encountered here were not much of a problem for me. I can’t wait to get to some higher places though, haha!
This well-told story reminds me of a bitter winter night when my husband, late getting home from work, arrived with a shopping bag containing a pair of sneakers and two pair of socks. I was less than gracious because I had been worried, the sneakers were too big for him and he didn’t need them.
At the gas station a man with his feet wrapped in rags was begging. My husband went to a nearby store and made his purchase, took it back to the gas station. The beggar glanced in the bag and flung it back at my husband. “No good deed goes unpunished.”
What a great inspiring story and you made his day as well as your own. Awesome, and it is moments like these that stay with us forever.
I am just loving your stories! 🙂
You knew it but you still bought the posters, that’s a donation. I just hope he bought a pair of shoes.
nice Ɗreading from a writer far away, i learnt.
Polly? 🤔 Basically everyone has less than us when we travel. I am notorious for donating at every shrine and overtipping. If I have $1 then I will give 50 cents. I have been rich and poor (currently) but for us it goes in cycles.
Haha didn’t proof this one… Just arrived in Budapest and life has been pressing
Ah. I am 50% Hungarian. Enjoy Buda–Pest.
In any country it is hard to decide if someone really needs help or not. How much better to err on the side of generosity!
Good for you! EQ indeed!
I read this with a heavy heart, we all tend to doubt everyone’s story no matter what faith we are, which is infact sad. However, the faith we are infact dictates our generosity without doubt.
You are a fine man. Namaste! 🙏🏻❤️
Nicely told! I hope the man has since been able to buy himself some shoes, and that the posters will always remind you of him.
Good for you! I remember working alongside a girl at the health department years ago and people were always giving her sob stories and she’d reach in her purse and hand them some money. I told her they were probably lying. Her response was, “Probably, but that’s between them and God, I did my part.”
In reality, he gave you what you wanted as well. A lighthearted banter and an interesting story.
A student in Kathmandu told me it took him 6 hours walking to school and returning home on a daily basis. He lived nearby Nagarkot. Considering it takes an hour to walk 4km. Then 6 hours is equivalent to walking about 24km.