Ice Climbs to Side of Martha, RMNP

Lacee Ankeney and I went up to Chasm Lake in the Spring of 2024, planning to make a spring climb of Alexander’s Chimney. When we reached the lake, we spied two ice flows on the cliffs of Mount Lady Washington which we had never seen before. It was a cloudy day, the perfect chance to climb these south-facing lines. We changed our plans and popped over to take a look. This was fortuitous for us, as RMNP SAR was searching for a lost hiker, and they ended up locating his body at the foot of Lamb’s Slide that day. We would have been the party to discover the body if we had continued with our original plan.

The ambiance in the cirque was moody that day, both due to the unusual grey weather and the repeated sweeping turns from the search helicopter.

There were two distinct lines formed. We climbed the right-side line for one 30-meter pitch, finding it around M5+. The second pitch looked yummy, but we passed due to extremely poorly-bonded ice, warming temps, and disappearing protection. We wrapped a cordalette around a boulder and rappelled from there. We saw no other fixed gear. I was not able to track down firsthand accounts from anyone who had climbed this before, but probably some old-timers have. It’s not mentioned in any printed guidebooks or online sources.

Some pics:

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Vallunaraju North Ridge 2024

Calum Kenny (UK/Hong Kong) and I climbed the North Ridge of Vallunaraju in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca on July 10, 2024. We successfully completed the route, although we found it in much harder condition than reported in many sources. We carried our camp up and over and descended the standard route to moraine camp, and then the Llaca refuge.

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Enter The Dragon (M4), RMNP

My climbing partner Enrico Calvanese just finished editing this video of a mixed ice and rock climb we did in Rocky Mountain National Park this March. This was my first climb coming off of having Covid – I was smoked!!! It was fun to pair up with someone dedicated to the videography as I usually neglect documentation in favor of focusing on the climbing.

Enjoy the video! It should be available with Italian subtitles as well. Enrico has other great mountaineering videos on his channel too – check it out!

It might not be the last time I make an appearance on there…

Why I Chose to #OptOutside this Black Friday

When I’m traveling and people find out I’m American, one of the first things they usually say is: “Oh, America: Black Friday!”

I’m not sure why this event has managed to attach itself to the American identity, but I’ve had enough foreigners ask me about it that it clearly has. The rest of the world sees us as capitalism-crazed lemmings; people who will jump out of bed at 5 a.m. for anything, as long as the discount’s high enough.

And maybe that’s true, for some segment of my countrymen. But that’s not MY America. The same way the extreme Islamic clerics don’t represent Nouman’s Morocco, the homophobes in the streets don’t represent Iuri’s Brazil, and the Brexiteers don’t represent Sean’s England. Black Friday shoppers don’t represent MY America.

You can’t (successfully) stereotype people of any country — but the US, even less so. As I tell people when they ask about my home: there are many Americas.

And in my America, we #OptOutside.

While everyone else got up at 5 a.m. to snag #dealz, we got up at 5 a.m. to go snag some early-season ice climbing at Hidden Falls, in Rocky Mountain National Park. Find a different side of America, below the jump.

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