Colorado’s ice climbing scene is a little secretive. Numerically, we probably have the most ice climbers out of any state in the USA. As an informal way of controlling those crowds, information about where the ice is located is pretty hard to come by. Conditions, too, are often hoarded.
Facebook groups exist, and are probably the best source of current info (as well as drama). If you know where to look and what the names of the climbs are, Mountain Project can be an ok resource. But there’s plenty which is not online or is intentionally obscured.
This post is just intended as a primer for the guidebooks which exist for Colorado ice. It points you towards a few resources, if you care to track them down. I’ll link to Amazon where possible, but keep in mind that the prices on these things change algorithmically according to supply and demand, so it’s hard for me to know what type of price you’ll see.
If you don’t want to buy these books, the regional Colorado libraries have some copies, and the American Alpine Club has a spectacular guidebook library, located in Golden, which AAC members can take advantage of. I have also personally installed a few of these books at the Ice Coop in Boulder. Don’t steal ’em.
OUT OF PRINT GUIDEBOOKS
The below books can no longer be bought new; you’ll have to track down a used copy, or hope for a new edition. In general, especially in winter, the out-of-print stuff can be pretty expensive. Your best bet for a bargain is browsing thrift stores and library sales, although this requires a good amount of time.
Colorado Ice Climber’s Guide by Cameron Burns (1997)
One of only two books which covers the entire state, Cam Burns’ guidebook includes most of the popular ice. It is a great starting point, although a bit lacking on the really obscure things. The access and parking instructions are naturally a bit dated, since the book came out almost thirty years ago. Burns is still around and can be found in the Colorado Ice Climbing Facebook groups, but has said he has no intention of releasing a new or updated book.
Colorado Ice Climbing: Waterfalls, Smears, Mixed, Selected Alpine by Jack Roberts (1998)
Jack Roberts’ first Colorado Ice guide covered the whole state, although in lesser detail and with only black and white photos. This volume remains valuable for its coverage of the Front Range as well as RMNP alpine climbs.
Colorado Ice Climbing Volume 1 by Jack Roberts (2005)
After publishing his 1998 ice guide, Jack Roberts decided to update it into a full color comprehensive two-volume set. Volume 1 would cover SW Colorado, including areas like Ouray, Lake City, and the rest of the San Juans, while Volume 2 would have included Front Range climbing areas like Vail and RMNP. Volume 1 was published in 2005. Unfortunately, the author died in 2012 while climbing on Bridalveil Falls in Telluride, and Volume 2 was never published.
Read more about Jack Roberts here, and a blog post discussing the circumstances of his death, here.
Rocky Mountain National Park by Richard Rossiter (2015)
This is a beautiful, modern, and comprehensive book to RMNP which includes both rock and ice routes. It even has a very handy ice-only index. Easily recognizable by the painting of the Longs Peak Diamond on the cover. I don’t know why this one went out of print so fast – it is an exceptional book and they would sell many more copies with another printing. The publisher has not responded to my inquiry about a reprint or new edition. If you can find a copy, buy it.
Fixed Pin Publishing Page
Check prices on Amazon
IN PRINT COLORADO ICE GUIDEBOOKS
As of 2024, these books are still in print and can be bought new from the publisher, certain retailers around Colorado, or online. Keep in mind that even “in print” climbing guidebooks may not be as easily accessible as most goods – you might have to look around a little, and maybe even call and ask. A few speciality climbing retailers you might try:
- Rock and Resole, Boulder (303-440-0414)
- Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder (303-499-8866)
- The Mountain Chalet, Colorado Springs (719-633-0732)
- Ouray Mountain Sports, Ouray (970-325-4284)
- Rock and Snow, New Paltz, NY (845-255-1311)
Suffer Candy Vol 1 by Jason Nelson
The first modern guidebook to Colorado ice climbs to release since the death of Jack Roberts, Suffer Candy Volume 1 covers Ouray and the surrounding areas, including Silverton, Red Mountain Pass, and Telluride. This book covers the entire Ouray Ice Park as well as the significant backcountry ice climbing around the area.
Jason Nelson is currently working on a reprint with updates.
Visual Adventures publishing page
Rakkup Suffer Candy 1 Digital Guide
(not available on Amazon)
Suffer Candy Volume 2 by Jason Nelson
Suffer Candy Volume 2 covers “West Central Colorado”, which is not really a defined region, per se, but is probably the best way to describe what’s inside. Areas covered include Lake City, Cimarrons, Redstone, Grand Junction, Glenwood Canyon, and more. In general, a lot of the ice in this book is pretty obscure, with lots requiring long approaches on ski or snow machine. Unfortunately this book does not include the new Dynamite Shack sector at the Lake City Ice park.
Visual Adventures publishing page
Rakkup Digital Suffer Candy 2 Guide
(Not available on Amazon)
Life by the Drop by Jack Hunt (2001)
This slim volume covers ice climbing in the San Luis Valley and Wolf Creek pass near Durango. It generally can’t be found online, but speciality Colorado retail shops do carry it. I bought my copy at Ouray Mountain Sports four years ago and have seen them on shelves elsewhere as recently as 2023.
Rocky Mountain National Park: The High Peaks by Bernard Gillett (2001)
Since Rossiter’s RMNP book is out of print, the only currently-available ice climbing guide to Rocky Mountain National Park is Bernard Gillett’s set of two books – broken into “Estes Park Valley” and “The High Peaks”. Only “The High Peaks” covers ice climbing. This book has decent coverage and mentions most of the popular ice climbs in the park, but it lacks photos, topos, and the detailed route descriptions of Rossiter’s book.
Colorado Snow Climbs by Dave Cooper (2007)
Kind of a borderline inclusion, this book covers couloir climbs and things of that nature. There’s a little overlap with a few alpine ice routes, but when Cooper says “snow climbs”, he means it. You won’t find any waterfall ice here. This book is concentrated on mountains near the Front Range and I-70 corridor.
Check prices on Amazon
Colorado Mountain Club publishing page
FORTHCOMING
Rob Griz has told me he has a new self-published guidebook upcoming under the title “Cold Smoke”, which should cover ice climbing from Georgetown to Glenwood Canyon (more or less), including detailed coverage of the Vail Amphitheater. He claims it’ll be out in Fall 2024. His website, Griz Guides, can be found here.
Jason Nelson is working on a second edition (or at least an updated reprint) of Suffer Candy Volume 1.
I’ve heard a rumor that there’s an updated version of Gillett’s “The High Peaks” in the works. Just a rumor though.
CONCLUSION
I hope this blog was useful to you. I wrote the article I could have used some years ago. There are a few rarer/more obscure books and resources which do exist, but I won’t be covering those in this post. The Amazon links are affiliate links – if you do make a purchase, I earn a small commission.
Happy hunting!
thisisyouth 